LCB

Introduction

Dhoompan is a tale of two friends and a Bangladeshi heritage.

Located on the site of one of their father's long retired Tandoor King takeaway, Dhoompan X Tandoor King (to use its full name), is both an homage to family roots in the food industry, but also a celebration and revival of Bangladeshi food in Tooting. 

As all across the UK, the Bangladeshi community hasn't received the recognition it deserves for the origins of the British Indian restaurant scene. Branding themselves as Indian for the sake of ignorant Brits, Bangladeshi chefs were more often than not the pioneers that brought curry to the UK. 

While there are stronger associations with London's famous Brick Lane, in Tooting, Bangladeshis have often worked behind the scenes in Indian and Pakistani restaurant kitchens, not getting the credit they deserve. Now owners Tahir and Akhlaaq are determined to change that with a fresh take on Bangladeshi tandoor cuisine in the heart of Tooting's vibrant and varied scene. 

Of course, based in Tooting, we had to go and give our perspective. Joining me on a double date were Caroline, Spellins and Connie.

Venue

Dhoompan is a 30 second walk west from Tooting Bec tube along Trinity Road. Whilst itself unlicensed, the Wheatsheaf pub offers a pre-paneer pit stop just a few steps away for those who prefer to whet their whistle first.

Inside one finds a coffee shop style counter and signs for Bangla tea reflect this vibe. The marble counter top is reclaimed like much of the interior design, including an old church pew offering seating for the few covers by the window. 

Opposite, bold modern pop art-style pieces line the exposed brick wall in contrast to the austere, contemporary racing-green shop front. Hanging wicker lights provide a mood lit ambiance while garden seating currently under construction holds the promise of sunlit dining in summer. 

There's a nice further connection to the past via a quirky old sewing machine that sits above the door - a nod to the another of the venue's past lives as a textile factory. 

This is a tasteful, relaxed diner suited to a pleasant lunchtime break or an evening gathering of friends. It also offers quieter surrounds than the area's often more hectic South Asian restaurants. 

7/10

Starters and sides & Curry (combined)

Far Far

Jhal Muri

'What the fuchka?'

Aloo Khobi

Begun Bora

Chicken TK

Bengali Brisket Keema Naan

Tandoori King Chicken

Tandoori King Lamb

Ponir

House Daal

Rice

The food here is setup for takeaway with cardboard bowls and wooden crockery for the most part. This follows a trend of more casual South Asia openings in Tooting like SKVP and NaanStop, catering to a lunchtime and working from home/on the go crowd. However, despite at-counter ordering, and wraps to go,  there is a distinct, elevated feel to dishes here, versus say the authentic yet very traditional (and often stodgy) Indian street food at SKVP. 

The dishes at Dhoompan are for the most part more colourful, often presented as stand alone meals with salads, pickles and garnishes, that stand apart from the typical beige of samosas and pavs. Tandoori dishes and snacks items not found elsewhere locally also provide a point of difference.

From the snacks menu we had far far, jhal muri, and 'what the fuchka?' - a take on puchka/pani puri. 

The far far was dangerously moreish with it's savoury and colourful, light and crispy hoops, sprinkled in sugar. It could be mistaken for a kids cereal, as could the cup of puffed rice jhal muri that had a dusty masala coating for a spicy crunch. 

Equally crunchy were the 'what the fuchka?!', crispy shells packed with chickpeas and doused with tamarind water for a refreshing bite, but unusually topped with grated egg for a more loaded take on the popular puchka shots. 

Our other plates came at random and included kebabs, chicken tikka and vegetarian dishes. The two chef's specials were probably the pick of the bunch, both unique in their own ways. 

The Chicken TK was elevated above the Tandoor King Chicken by it's curry sauce housing a subtle coriander edge, whilst both were freshly cooked to order (like all the dishes) in Dhoompan's own clay ovens. 

The second special was the unmissable Bengali brisket keema naan, an original take on the classic naan that is sure to be copied. More like a calzone in proportions, this chunky meat filled bread pocket was stacked with delicious and aromatic 12-hour smoked beef brisket, perfectly complimented by a chunky homemade raita. Superb. 

The lamb seekh kebabs and ponir (paneer cheese) were prepared in the same way as the tandoori chicken and excellent as a result, with both plates coming with a delicately sliced and home-pickled salad of red onions and chillies. 

The dry rub on the ponir was something else - probably only matched in Tooting by Hyderabadi Zaiqa's. Accompanying the meat dishes were some fried aubergine wedges that were perfect for dipping although could have been a little saltier for my tastes. Better was a medley of potato, cauliflower and chickpea in the aloo khobi. Nothing like it's namesake elsewhere, this was again a welcome fresh, with a lovely blend of sweetness and spice, sided with salad, and great with the condiments on offer. 

A free taster of daal topped things off, alongside other free samples of Dhoompans fiery naga sauce, rice, and a house vegetable dish. All were welcomed with affirmative noises of delight to match the eulogizing of the other dishes. All in all, and excellent showing.

16/20

Service

Whilst there isn't table service here per se, food is delivered to your table by the very friendly owners. We had a good chat with both Tahir and Akhlaaq who were proud to share Dhoompan's story and more information about the dishes and their philosophy. 

Otherwise, as mentioned, this is more casual dining without the pretense or table dressing of anything more. It's therefore a solid 7 for Service to match the style of experience, and in comparison to other London venues we've rated previously.

7/10

Value for money

Prices range from a few pounds for snacks and salads to £13 for the signature Bengali naan. There is therefore something for everyone with individual dishes certainly big enough for a decent lunch (naan rolls, bhat bowls and chapati rolls range from £6-£11) alongside plates that could be combined or shared for dinner as we did. 

Quality is high too, particularly given how fresh everything is and made to order. We paid about £25 a head with plenty eaten and a soft drink each which was very good. You aren't getting silver service, but these are competitive prices locally.

7/10

Summary

Apparently owner Tahir has not yet told his Dad about the restaurant opening on the site of his former spot, but, when he does hear, he's sure to be proud to see what it has now become. 

We've seen plenty of South Asian restaurants come and go in our time in Tooting, but here's hoping Dhoompan is here to stay to pass on 47 Trinity Road to the next generation. 

And what better way to maintain the strong Bangladeshi contribution to Tooting's culinary scene with an original and contemporary take showcasing true flavours of the country, this time under their own flag.

37/50

Read our review of nearby SKVP here