LCB

Introduction

2024 has flown by and yours truly has been particularly lax on the blogging front. Don't worry, I have been eating curry but it just hasn't been making it to the record. But no more! I hereby commit to write ups within a week...or so... whilst also trickling in the 6 month backlog of yet unwritten reviews. Well, that's the plan anyway.

This week's review comes from the hottest scene in London. Yes, that's right, Tooting. And boy is it hot. There isn't a visit I make to the high street without seeing a refurb or new entrant, leaving me sweating at both the prospect of new culinary experiences on offer and at the amount of money I'm about to spend on furthering my waistline's expansion.

As an aside, there seems to be an influx of street food/chai eateries and kiosks in Tooting - SKVP, Dhoompan, Cha Sha, Chai Wala, Chaat Gali, Naan Stop, Chai Tapri, Mona's Munch, Chaskay... the list goes on - seemingly more prevalent than sweet shops on Oxford street, but hopefully not as fraudulent. What is influencing this trend - low rents, working from home, money laundering, it's unclear, but certainly welcome in my eyes? Cheap paratha galore - what more do you want.

Anyway, on this occasion it wasn't paratha or a cup of chai, but something slightly more refined - or at least according to the promotional material. We were off to Mussoorie - not the North Indian municipality but the new Indian small plates restaurant in Tooting Bec.

Joining Caroline and me were Spellins and Connie, a few doors down from our last dinner together at Dhoompan.

Venue

Mussoorie is influenced by the North Indian cuisine of its namesake and has the Himalayan momo and Chinese menu influences to boot. Locally it would be comparable to Gurkhas but with Balham Social, small plate and cocktail vibes.

Unfortunately, Mussoorie doesn't quite have the Instagram friendly sheen of it's Balham neighbour as the decor looks little changed from it's ill-fated predecessor Fourteen - a sister restaurant to the popular Little Taperia - that didn't last long at the same address. However, given the high turnover at this location, saving a fwe bob on leaving the interior untouched may prove to be a wise choice in the long run.

Still, the chessboard tiled floor, bar seating, and mood lighting is tasteful, if not new. However, the overwhelming sense is a lack of defining character to Mussoorie, one that hopefully doesn't fate it to a life of obscurity.

6/10

Starters and sides & Curry

Poppadom Basket

Samosa Chaat

Kurkure Bhindi

Steamed Himalayan Mutton Momo

Paneer Tikka

Adraki Lamb Chops

Masala Vada Pao Slider

Daal Makhani

Dum Murg Biryani

Garlic Prawns

Mussoorie's menu is fortunately more distinctive than it's interior, with a good number of small and big plates to choose from to satisfy all tastes. As such, we rate all together here - both 'Sides and Starters' & 'Curry'.

The initial poppadom basket housed garlic and spicy garam  segments that were a nice twist on the classic appetizer, but the weird cheesy/garlicky dip that partnered two decent minty green raita and homemade mango chutnies was a bit too odd for me. Similarly, the anemic and slightly spongey paneer tikka wasn't the best and, like the oddly marinated, but chunky adraki (ginger) lamb chops, came with a more Mediterranean than Indian tomato and onion salad. 

Two further dishes, the steamed mutton momos and garlic prawns, exemplified the more North Indian roots of Mussorie, with Nepalese and Chinese flavours in both dishes repecitvely. Momos never quite live up to their Chinese dumpling cousins in my opinion and I felt the same about the offer here. However, three of the other small plates really made our visit worthwhile. These were the masala vada pao slider, kurkure bhindi, and samosa chaat. All three are fast becoming regulars on more contemporary Indian menus across the capital and Mussoorie puts in its claim as proprietor of some of the best. The pav slider, an elevated street food classic, with an extra pakora on the side, was generously sized and housed a lovely spiced potato patty, while the samosa chaat painted a pretty picture wtih two chunky pastry samosa smothered in a blend of yoghurt, tamarind, chickpea and sev sprinkles. Both, were excellent, as was the kurkure bhindi - delicately sliced and deep fried okra alongside coconut shavings that competes with the best at the likes of Saravanaa Bhavan and Gunpowder.

Finally, we had the daal makhani and dum murg (chicken) biryani, neither the most picturesque, but both good. The daal was quite creamy and better (in my humble opinion) than Dishoom's famous offering, but not as good as Tooting's SKVP. The biryani came last and lacked something saucy to accompany it, but the thighs within were tender and tasty, if perhaps not quite justification for the highest price on the menu.

So, all in all, plenty of choice on the menu here, but I would recommend being selective and sticking with the small plates to get the best options.

14/10

Service

It wasn't too busy despite our Friday night visit. This was perhaps another ominous sign for Mussoorie alongside the short tenures of previous 14 Trinity Road occupants. It did, however,  mean we were served pretty well, but given the dishes came one at a time, I would worry if it did get any busier. Indeed, the two chefs and one waiter (a poor man's Fred from first dates, with a very large beard) were all the staff visible.

We didn't mind the sporadic small plate delivery as we had a constant chain of dishes, although rarely were there more than one or two on the table at anyone time. This did mean by the end we just had biryani on its own which felt odd at the end of the meal.

6/10

Value for money

With the dishes a bit of a mixed bag in both quality and price, value can be found if the right choices are made. The samosa chaat at £6.95 and kurkure bhindi for a pound less represent a decent return, while the chicken biryani - the most expensive dish on the menu at £13.95 - is a little toppy given the end product. That said, given that is the ceiling on prices, it is pretty good going for this day and age, and portions weren't too small either.

7/10

Summary

Sadly, I fear for Mussoorie. The few patrons and history of its location suggest it will struggle to make a permanent mark on the highly competitive Tooting scene. A few choice dishes here are well worth the visit, and I certainly wish it well, but it's hard to look past Balham Social locally for an equivalent but better dining experience.

Will Mussoorie reach the heights of its Himalayan roots or join the many other Tooting curry house ghosts?Only time will tell, but having seen many come and go in my time, I wouldn't wait around before trying Mussoorie it if tickles your fancy.

33/50